It's hot, but the other requisite flavours (such as the sour) are all show and no go. The waiter pours on a large orange puddle of chili oil tableside, which is impressive - and helps the soup stay one-dimensional. Just to make sure that going gaga over New Sky is not a result of going soft in the head thanks to desperation for edible Chinese food downtown, I checked out Peter's Chung King (on College Street, just west of Spadina), which is lauded by many as the mothership for hot and sour soup. They do scallops with almost-raw mushrooms and barely cooked garlic, all in delicate Cantonese sauce that's nonetheless long on flavour. Peking duck is perfect pancakes with duck crackling, hoisin and lightly sweet pickled daikon and carrot to cut the irresistible grease. Its splendiferous garnish is big, meaty Chinese mushrooms. Steamed chicken in lotus leaf is moist and rich with the scent of soy, sesame, ginger and Chinese wine. Lobster with ginger and green onion is barely cooked. She will not allow us to order crispy noodles, instead recommending Fu-Kin noodles, which are crisp-fried on the outside of the platter and soft toward the centre of it, topped with emerald asparagus slices, peas and chunks of sweet BBQ pork. This is Spadina, with Spadina prices, but our server whisks away the dirty plates every couple of courses. Chinese broccoli with oyster sauce is another green dream, the veg crunchy, the sauce smooth.
#ROGER THAT CAFE FULL#
The dish of stir-fried string beans with minced meat in XO sauce is full of sweet pork bits, beans intensified by hot wok frying, an XO chili wallop and big chunks of green onion whites for another strong flavour note. It arrives in a tall bamboo steamer, the rice under the crab turned yellow and tasty from being steamed under crab roe. Thanks to copycat ordering, we feast on giant B.C. "We want what they're having," works better than a Berlitz phrase book at New Sky. But all the other diners here are Asian, and they do not appear to take offence at our curiosity.
The menu lists everything in Chinese first: It makes one wonder whether some of the best stuff is not offered in English. Ordering your meal is slightly challenging, thanks to the list of specials on blackboards - all in Chinese. Hunan dumpling is another fragile cladding round beautifully seasoned pork, its sauce an improbable creamy compendium of peanut butter spiked with chili and green onions.
Everybody does shrimp dumplings but few package them in such fragile wrapping, and with a dazzling, good-enough-to-drink sauce of soy, sesame and green onion. Hot and sour soup has the requisite elements - hot, sour, a back story of sweetness - in perfect balance.ĭumplings are a dime a dozen on Spadina, but New Sky has built a better dumpling. Soup of mustard greens and sliced pork with salted egg has richness, depth and delicacy. No Western soup can match the knife-edge harmony of a great Chinese soup, and New Sky gets it right. Chinese soups, poorly done all over downtown, are ethereal and yet deep with flavour when they're properly executed. It's extremely unusual to find food as flavourful as New Sky's south of Highway 7. And the servers have learned a thing or two since Spadina's heyday. New Sky is pretty! Cream tablecloths, Chinese vases and figurines in glass cases are just the ticket to make a middle-aged Sinophile happy. This is not your tired Spadina joint, with plastic tablecloths and iffy washrooms.
#ROGER THAT CAFE UPDATE#
Here is a map of the businesses listed below, thanks to Grace:Īdd the ones we missed in comments or email and we’ll update – the list is alphabetical.How wonderful it was then to discover New Sky on Spadina, just north of Lee Garden. Then again – there don’t seem to be any Starbucks in Bed-Stuy, or Flatbush, or East Flatbush, or Canarsie, or East New York, or Crown Heights except for the one at Franklin Parkway and the other at 394 Myrtle. There are many reasons to chose local over chain stores, and for those wishing to avoid Starbucks in light of recent events, here are some good, black-owned (to the best of our knowledge as of the date of publication) coffee shops ready to serve you. Starbucks will close at 2:30 pm today, so if you’re out and about and need a coffee fix, why not check out one of the local black-owned coffeeshops in Brooklyn our list, now with a map, can be found below!Īnd if you’re looking to keep supporting local businesses, be sure to check out Black-Owned Brooklyn, too!
The training comes in response to the incident in Philadelphia in early April. UPDATE (5/29/18): Today, Starbucks will be closing all their branches early nationwide to conduct a racial bias training for all its employees. 3 min read Roger That Cafe on Roger (Photo by BKLYNER).
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